I recently spent several days deep in fried chicken R&D for a consulting project and thought I would share a few insights. This recipe development work was for a restaurant with a fryer, so home cooking will require a little adaptation. The fundamentals are solid and transferable though, and fried chicken is about technique anyway. Rather than give specific recipes we should summarize points of controversy and their possible solutions.
#1 To brine or not to brine
This recipe has gone through many iterations (as have I) since I started working it in 2007. It was originally based on recipes from Pierre Hermé and David Everitt-Matthias. It spent some time on and off menus when I was in kitchens and is to date probably my most requested recipe. I like taking the Sicilian approach and pairing with Prickly Pear sorbet, bitter components or something bright and tart to counteract the rich, alkaline nature of the cake. This ratio of butter to
Here is a hint for those who like to cook - use oxtail. Yes, it looks like a giant denuded penis and yes, it is actually the tail which is a little gross. But, do you need a rich brown stock? A meaty soup base? A rich and hearty braise? Then skip your boutique grocer's tail at $6.99 per pound and go directly to the local Asian supermarket and spend $2.59 and buy three times as much. Oxtail is just as it sounds - tail. There was time when it actually meant old male cow tail,
I remember my first espelette. I am only about 50% on the anniversary, and sometimes the car is not where it was left, but I remember the first time I used the pepper. I was working at Giorgio's in Portland, just after they made Gourmet's top restaurants list. I had just left Terra Restaurant in Napa Valley and returned to Portland hoping to continue up the fine-dining ladder. Giorgio's was turning out some of the best food in the city at that time, which was ironic since th